From a special someone for all you special people out there

"There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise. And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive. This ecstasy, this forgetfulness of living, comes to the artist, caught up and our of himself in a sheet of flame; it comes to the soldier, war-mad on a stricken field and refusing quarter; and it came to Buck, leading the pack, sounding the old wolf cry, straining after the food that was alive and that fled swiftly before him through the moonlight. He was sounding the deeps of his nature, and of the parts of his nature that were deeper than he, going back into the womb of Time. He was mastered by the sheer surging of life, the tidal wave of being, the perfect joy of each separate muscle, joint, and sinew in that it was everything that was not death, that was aglow and rampant, expressing itself in movement, flying exultantly under the stars and over the face of dead matter that did not move".

Best Buy

It has been some time since I have written anything, I must apologize (mainly to myself). I find little time for subtle pleasures when trying to arrange my life.
Today I found myself going to Best Buy to find some printer cartridges for my girlfriend. Let me give you a little background about Best Buy. I hate them, and there are many reasons for this. Basically they are a corporation and that should sum it up. I have no idea how they were founded who runs the company, why they do what they do but I do know that they suck. I once went into a best buy during a phase of my life where I was unable to walk without a crutch. There was not much I could do so I went there to buy a video game to occupy my time. The trip was a success as I could afford the game and show the proper ID. But to my astonishment when I got home and installed the game on my pc it wouldnt work. The computer was prehistoric, built in my cousin's basement. So still having my receipt I returned to the boxy monstrosity of a building and kindly asked the service rep to return my game and let me have another that my computer would run. She told me that was impossible. She said that I could have copied the game to my computer and tried to "steal it". My retort, "are you calling me a thief?" She said politely no but thats the deal. I asked if she believed that everyone that came in the store was potentially a thief? She said no. So if I bought a washing machine and took it home could I return it. If there was a problem with it, yes, I could. I said what if I brought it home, took it apart and used the internals as a map to making my own washing machine. Thats impossible sir. No its not, but do you understand what I am saying to you? She said no and I left with the game on the counter. I vowed to never go there again.
So today as I go into the God forsaken place for my bird, I was instantly greeted by a woman posing to be security, who looked me up and down as if I had already stolen something. I gave her a piss off look and went about my business. I found the merch that I was looking for and proceeded to the checkout with Stephs blank check. I began to fill the rest out at the counter and the woman kindly said, "I am sorry we cant take that." Why, and she said store policy says that they cannot except checks from people didnt sign it in front of the register. I wished I had a needle to poke in my eye, but not having one, I used my own credit card.
I realize that these people are only screws in the bigger machine, but I almost hate them equally. I wonder if anyone else out there feels this way about Best Buy or any other company. I am sure that you are out there.

Trip Home

Well my trip home was anything but boring. One would think that driving 3000 miles in less than a week would be awful. But it was anything but that. Thanks to my beautiful co-pilot, not only was the drive fun, but it was actually possible. All my possible means of payment for gas and food were relinquished in Canada by some meth-head. But her assets proved to be quite able.
The first part of the drive was a quick Squamish to Smith Rock venture. We arrived at Smith about ten hours later and pitched camp at a fairly good spot at the Skull Hollow campground (free). In the middle of the night I awoke screaming. Thanks to my greediness while asleep, Steph had kicked my sore ankle in the middle of the night while I was trying to steal her sleeping bag. Bad move on my part.
Then we were off to Boise but got sidetracked by a comfy inn with a hot tub in Bend. After soaking it up at the refuge (two free drink tickets), we finally made it to Bruce and Kari's villa. Got to go climbing the next morning and Kari worked with Steph at a gym and taught her some of the more proper techniques involved with climbing. Afterwards Steph gave me a belay on lead and it was her first time to belay at all. I was definitely impressed, both with the teacher and student. (Thanks Brucey and Kari)
Later we departed and eventually ended up in Ogden, Utah, or the buttcrack of Utah (affectionately). After driving around for three hours not able to find a campsite we ended up at a shady motel and spent the night.
Thank God for Indian Creek. You would think even in the summer heat that nobody could resist climbing there but you would be wrong. We drove through Moab, which was bustling, and assumed that Indian Creek might be busy. But as we drove in the only other people in the entire canyon were the Indians at Newspaper Rock (they sell jewelry to the tourist) who were packing up, and the Ranch owners. We went to the illustrious site that I had stayed at earlier in the year. It was truly Heaven. The shade had just settled as we set up camp and dinner. The gnats were even scared away by a tiddle of rain, yes rain in the summer in the desert. Steph had wanted to see the Grand Canyon but she was equally or more impressed with beauty of the Creek.
Continuing on we ended up in Breck, my old home, and hung out with some good friends at the Blue River House. It was great to see everyone doing well and made me miss the place quite sorely.(Hope to be back soon Dave) The next moring we awoke, fixed breakfast and then went to do the Summit County Traverse. This a traverse that seemingly never ends and is as hard as you want to make it. The it was off to the Breck Brewpup for a workmans special. If you ever find yourself there at lunchtime, order this delite for the best burger, fries and beer you can buy in CO and it only costs five smackers.
That meal nourished us properly for the drive to Amarillo where we Stephanie's amazing parents awaited with more food and fun. For the next five days we got in the hot tub, pool, lake, and ate like royalty. I cant really say enough about the Thompsons. Anne and David, thank you so much for your hospitality.
Today, finally I arrived home after a five hour drive with only Wu-Tang and Bob Marley playing (my CD player is quite picky). So I leave you with quotes from both
Wu - I am on a mission that brothers say is impossible, but when I swing my swords theyre all choppable.
Bob - I wanna be iron, like a lion, in Zion.
These quotes may not inspire much here, but in context, they will wow and shock you into a frenzy of thought that encourages the betterment of self and the world around you.

Cheers

For My Friends

I have to say that I am quite sad to have left the illustrious town of Squampton. It is one of the most beautfiul cities I have seen and I am thankful to have seen it before the economic boom it is about to go through. I am very happy to say that my last night there was one of the best I have had in some time.
After a late start (6:30 pm) we went bouldering. I was fortunate to see my friend Jak send her V5 or 6 and Logan send his V9. It was amazing to watch such amazing displays of strength and grace. At about ten we came back to the campsite to participate in a little Swedish culture. Our friend Ricko was preparing some cheese fondue. WIth enough cheese for the whole Republic of China we began eating the kilo of cheese and bread (not sure about the metric conversion but its alot). Afterwards we cracked some beers and rolled some celebratory cigarettes and one of the most beautiful moments in my life occurred.
Ricko is here from Switzerland. He is a metal worker and he decided to take a three month vacation one day. He came here with "his friend" and set out for adventure. His journey ended up in Squamish, where he and ourselves were fortunate enough to be neighbors. He met some Swiss "clampers" who took him cragging one day. He came back with the biggest smile on his face and his friends Marco and Staffan were equally elated. He had a blast and the next day went and bought shoes for more. His second day of climbing was by far the best. The guys took him up an area classic called Diedre (6 pitches of 5.8) and then linked it up to the Squamish Buttress ( 7 pitches 10 C) to take him to the top of the Chief. And apparently he was hooked. He went bouldering several times after that and if his english were a bit better I have a feeling it would have been all he talked about.
So my last day a few of us went to town and bought him a present. When the fondue was over and the cigs were finished we handed him his brand new harness. Never have I seen someone so happy from such a small gift in all my life. "This is a dream," he said. He could not contain his feelings and demonstrated one of the most broken yet elogant vocal displays of emotion.
This moment was the highlight of my trip and I would have everything I own stolen if it meant I got to see that again.
So to all my new friends, I am truly feel blessed. No one in this is world is as lucky as I was to get to share such a brief period of time with such a great group of people. I cant wait to see "yall" again.

What a Day

June 19th
It was a glorious day in Squamish. We awoke late but due to the great weather we knew we had to get going fast. When it is not raining in Squamish one must take advantage of the open window. After a splendid breakfast (bananna pancakes) presented by the glorious Aussie/Canuck duo, we set out for a 15 pitch day up to the top of the Chief.
It was a great start to the day. After a short drive to the parking lot we set out up St. Vitus direct route to gain the upper buttress. The first pitch was 10c pitch led marvelously by the infamous Hardman from Tennessee. After some thin finger crack action (the crux was wet) Warren jumped out onto the ledge using his patented flying squirrel technique that he learned back home. I followed and cleaned the gear and we walked up the next pitch. It was 5.8 offwidth and the lead was mine. In forty meters I place the only four pieces that would fit the crack and set up a belay. Warren showed up a bit later and took the sharp-end on a two pitch linkup. Next was Memorial Flake which Warren was more psyched about and big snake took the lead again. All of this was to gain Memorial ledge and then set off for Memorial Crack. We were joined on the ledge by our Soloist friend David and shared some food and water. Warren Had been dying to do Memorial Crack so this lead was his also. David went ahead of us, beautifully demonstrating the cool head needed for soloing such a great route. He took the camera and shot some pics from above. Once above this, we marched up again for our linkup to the squamish buttress (squamptress).
The hike was quite brutal and we were engulfed by our hunger and thirst. We were losing steam but still found enough gusto in our reservoirs to hit it hard. I took the lead. Great big jugs sent me over a roof to a slabby face climb to a bolt. Once to the bolt I hit the crux. Everything up to this point was quite casual. We were talking to each other and laughing how I couldnt keep chalk on my sweaty digits. Then I hit the vertical business. Crimping and edging my feet on smaller holds, I fondled my chalk bag over and over but it wasnt helping. About eight feet above the bolt I hit the wall. Hanging on small hold, I threw my foot up in desperation just missing the foothold. Warren let out a shout, "yeah buddy'. But it was too late and I was spit off the wall and went careening down like giant ass rocket. About twnety to thirty feet later I was hanging over the edge wondering what the hell had just happened. I had fallen off a vertical face and bounced onto the slab and began sliding quite fast toward the roof I had been flying over so casually. And the jugs that had been so kind to me earlier now were the destructors of my body. Luckily instead of my face smashing into them I was saved by my ankle. Immediately it was gushing blood and we realized it was time to retreat. We began the ginger hike down to a rappel which was quite insecure looking. Warren went first and while he was descending I noticed someone getting in my truck. Warren tried to tell me it was just our friend David, but I knew what was really going on.
Earlier I had made sure the truck was locked. But this stranger dressed in all black had found a key. Once finally down the brutal hike we found the rock on my seat and the window shattered. My computer, wallet and cell phone were all missing. From here warren and I went picked up Steph at the campground and went to town to find the police. After talking to a very kind and courteous policeman and some locals about the tragedy we took our meager looking entourage to the bar for beer, food and cigarettes. These were the most soothing moments of the day.

More to come

Early Fathers Day

To My Dad

Right now my Dad is laid up in bed in his home in Euless, Tx. I am currently at least forty hours away and can in no way afford a plane ticket. And I just want him and the rest of this world that I love him. He had an unfortunate accident and is now left with only one good ankle and shoulder (for the time being). Your prayers would be most appreciated.

As a kid I have always looked up to my father and not because he is tall. My dad is the kind of man that people appreciate. He listens to what you have to say and always has good advice (whether its what you want to hear or not). My father is a smooth business man who has always done well with his personality and striking good looks.

Having said all that, me and father dont always understand each other. My memory is not so good. But for quite some time my father has insisted that I work. So he began finding jobs for me when I was thirteen or fourteen. These were mainly lawn mowing or landscaping jobs that he would set up for me. Which made me lots of money since I had no startup costs or gas prices to deal with (he set me up with everything). This dinero was in turn spent on comic books, sports cards or new equipment. My dad tried to convince me that I should save this money but I never did. Maybe thats the way it will always be. I have been on the road now for quite some time and everytime I have talked to my father he has mentioned some kind of new good job. "The border patrol would be good work. Its with the government." And he is right. It would be good work. I would have health care and benefits, but for some reason that is not what I want. And I dont know what I want so I will keep trying this and that and learning new skills. As for my father he found what he was good at early and stuck with it. He is still in the biz and every bit as successful as he ever was and I am so proud of him for that. And my dream one day is to provide for my family the same way he has for us.

My dad has taught me so much in these twenty four years that we have been hanging out. And I appreciate all of it. And the memories that we share together will always be cherished. Even the time you put that leaf you found on your foot in my coke while I was asleep. "Man this coke taste awful." Oh you were still drinking that?" Good times dad.

I love you Dad, and I pray you have a speedy recovery. I will be home soon.

I wish that I knew what I know now

What can I say. I have now been in the Chief campground now for about a week. Camping at the base of this grand monument to God and nature is truly enlightening. I am surrounded by cultures from all over the world that are suddenly thrown together to see what they have in common. One of my neighbors (Rico) is here from Switzerland not Sweden. He is a metal worker that is on a three month vacation. His english is not very good and he carries a pocket translator with him everywhere ("it is warry good.") A couple of nights ago we had a movie night in the campground. Rico couldnt believe it, "This is crazy, crazy!" I never would have thought that I could have so much fun drinking beer with someone from another country and finding words in his translator that make us all laugh. He calls climbers "clampers" and almost all of his r's are replaced with w's. We also have an Aussie geologist who has quit his job ( and it is quite a lucrative one in Aussie Land) to climb full time. He is problaby one of the best climbers I know and is also one of the most modest. He was working on his 5.13 project in the rain (sick). He is training right now for the Bugaboos, a climbing area in Canada with ridiculous approaches and hard climbing at altitude. He will be attempting the third free ascent of a hardman route on Howser Tower. Anyways I could go on about the people but I grow weary of being on the web.