My DreaM

“The mind is its own place, and in itself can make a heaven of hell, a hell of heaven.” Those are words from Milton’s Paradise Lost. I do not remember the context of that statement but I feel like it is quite applicable to dreams. And a nightmare is what happened to me last night.
I got a call from my friend Cole. He was telling me that I should come to work because everyone was drunk and it really awesome. Except everything he said was garbled and I could not understand. I was laying in my bed with Delia as he was telling me all this. The moon was in full swing but it’s luminescence was being interrupted by some pesky clouds. Then without warning Delia began wriggling around on the bed and making a horrible sound. It could be likened to a coyote being caught in a steel trap and realizing after some time that it would have to gnaw off its own limb.
My bed lies at the end of my room aligned with the wall next to my rather large windows. The wind was blowing a bit through the open one at my feet. As I looked over at Delia to try to figure out what was happening I awoke, not knowing that I was dreaming (of course). She was still moaning and squirming and then I looked to my left and saw him. I gasped in horror much like Dorian seeing his painting. I froze, unable to speak or move. I gazed at the thing towering above my bed. His body was tall and dark, cascaded by the waning moonlight. He had long slicked hair and a dark piercing eye. Only the left side of his sharp and disastrous face was illuminated. He was reaching down at me with a huge outstretched hand. I assumed it was death or a demon and that I was done for. I was completely done for. I could feel my life leaving me the closer he got. Then the moonlight streaming through the closed windows brightened and the figure changed into my roommate who was holding a striped sweater over me saying that I had left it at his home. Then I woke up. I was a mess. I was still paralyzed, sweating bullets all over my body. I have never felt so useless and afraid in my whole life. I lay in bed for some time before I mustered up the courage to go turn on all the lights and lock the back door. Only with my dog and bowie knife did I have the gusto to wander around the house to make sure everything was safe.

NA

As I went into McAlisters (local deli) it had that same familiar smell and feel. You know, cheap food, underpaid employees and low structural integrity, good stuff. Anyways I stood behind a girl (from baylor) who had raced me in from the parking lot. I maintained my slow but eager pace and she took off at great speed. Faster is better is a common modality among the socialite. As we stood in line, for what was a long time, the aristocrat of the future kept checking her phone. I knew what was going to happen. Just as the lady at the counter began to tell her the total the girl answered her phone and completely ignored the server. She stabber a wad of money at the poor girl almost impaling the poor thing. All I could do is laugh. Then as she was walking away to go sit down I tripped her threw a brownie at her. I think the lesson was learned.

Delia

Delia for all of you who dont know is the name of my dog. I cant really form a complete thought at the moment, very tired. But my dog is rather quirky and does alot of weird stuff. I am not going to list them all but this is what happened this morning. I get out of bed, and immediately she starts pacing the room while I try to get dressed pretending it doesnt bother me. We go out in the front yard and pee together and then, yes, yes this is the funny part, She walks over to her food bowl (its empty), licks the pan, and then looks up at me like I am the retarded one. I want to believe that she was mocking me somehow. And I know she was but man it made me laugh up a storm this morning.

Cheers

One Night In Lake Wobagong

As I approached the area where the infamous Lake Wobagong was supposed to be (judging by the mile marker and the drunken slurs of the woman who picked me up on the side of the road) I was getting nervous. I couldn't believe there was actually a city named that in Europe. We had been on the road for some time, My driver, Mom, or so she said gave a somewhat coherent recollection of the last time she had been there. It did not seem pretty, unless you like drunken locals with guns and the smell of Indian Reservation. Mom was not the type to take any flak from me so when she fell asleep at the wheel I let her figure it out herself. The view so far was one of beauty. The trees seemed somehow to sparkle like junebugs in West Texas in the fading light that went on for days. The simple array of light through the golden fauna seemed to never end, until it did. Then everything disappeared and the desert engulfed us. I didn't know if I was crazy or the second hand breath from Mom was getting to me. We sailed through windy roads that cut the desert in half. The town shown through the darkness. There was one huge building surrounded by many small huts. The building resembled an American Mall with a very trashy Euro appeal. To my surprise there was no lake. Apparently that Pikey I had met in London was full of shit, you know the type. Mom slowed to a steady crawl handed me my belonging and pushed me out. Funny because she drove up about a mile to the parking lot and then jumped out herself. There were no hills to jumpstart the hunk of tin and moldy cheese, That was my only guess. After finally finding a "hostile" to stay the night, I began my approach to megalopolis. I breathed in the commerce and began to choke. All the shops were closed which was tradition in these parts but the bar was open and I believed that everyone was there. Drunken Monkey Face had an air to it and as I walked in everyone stopped and stared at me. "Hunter!" They all screamed. There was the pikey with 10 shots of something that resembled a toad in a blender. "Happy birthday," he said. I took the shot and asked what was going on? Everyone has left work for your birthday, just then everyone began touching me and singing happy birthday. They poured the rest of the insidious liquid down my throat and then... I woke up. I don't know how or what happened but I woke up in Maribor, Slovenia. And yes this is how I found myself.

Roger's Park

I love climbing. I love it like I love my left leg. Today I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to climb at Rogers Park. Rogers park is bouldering area in Central Texas that I believe, is a state treasure. As you drive through Belton, Tx, if you know the right way to get there (It can prove difficult if you havent been there) you will find yourself facing, after the mini-hike, a limestone wall that seems to never end. This wall travels around part of Lake Belton. If you are a climber you will notice holds and edges and slopers everywhere. And if you are not, you will surely be able to have a good time. Thankfully LB has gone down far enough for trees to grow and limestone wall to erode just enough to provide immaculate lines and perfect spots to lay and listen to the water rustle against the shore.
As my friend John and I got started we were almost immediately greeted by three other climbers from Austin who working on something serious. I dont remember the name, I never do, but man it was great to watch. You start on some small hands and feet, and dyno (jump) backwards to a huge hold and then get your ass up. Good times. I feel like everytime I am there I meet someone new, climb something new and come across someone I have met before. That is all. But man, the action, the scene, nature baby, nature.

Love it

New White Casa

I must say that I am glad to see a new party in the white house. The drudgery has gone for too long. But I think it is too soon to celebrate. Politics is a monter. One monster or another, is it really a fair trade? I am happy that these men and women say that they are going to change things. But words are simply spoke alot in D.C. I hope for many changes in this world and I wish that these people take pride in their opportunity and not just waste their newly appointed powers.

First Ascent

See more videos like this at Rock Climbing at YourClimbing.com

Tim

I wonder how Tim is doing right now? Tim is a guy that I met tonight at the SLC. The circumstances are great and thats the reason for this entry.
As me and my good friend John and Steph were leaving the Rock Gym, Stephanie began to stretch out her legs. The strecth that she chose was a good one for the old hamstring. You take your leg, cross it on your other knee, squat and stick your ass out in the air. As she was doing this when a guy came over and just had to ask. "Excuse me, I just have to ask, what is that stretch?" Legitimate question. But what I heard was "Excuse me, what an ass." I laughed so hard when I heard it. Stephanie had a very puzzled look on her face, and John didnt know what was going on. When I asked Tim if that was what he said (in a playful tone), he said"...uh... no...I said...Strectch. I was curious. I'm sorry, I am so sorry." Dont apologize I said, no big deal, shes my sister. He looked like his cat had just been run over and eaten by some flying carnivorous rat. "Because of this awkward situation I feel the need to introduce myself. My name is Tim...Bye."

It was great. I waited til he was gone to laugh. I hope he laughs about it later and I hope you get a kick out of it as well.

Culture Jam

I find this bit... inspirational.

Kalle Lasn

The new American dream is simply to approach life full-on, without undue fear or crippling self-censorship, pursuing joy and novelty as if tomorrow you'll be in the ground. The Situationists called this impulse " the will to playful creation," and they believed it should be extended "to all known forms of human relationships." There's no one more alive than the person who is openly, freely improvising-which is why the best stand-up comedians love hecklers, and why the best hosts love a wild-card dinner guest, and why the most electric political figures love deviating from their prepared scripts on live tv. There's no other way to discover what's at your core. This is what the new American dream is all about, and this is the kind of person the culture jammer aspires to be: someone who, to paraphrase Ray Bradbury, "jumps off cliffs and builds his wings on the way down.

!00 People

Right now I am listening to the audio book, 100 People Who Are Destroying America. Man, I am glad there is finally a book out there that accurately portrays how much I hate Idiots. I definately suggests this book or book on tape to anyone who is fed up with retards that are in power or are in the media.

Acula

I went to a Doctor once, all he did was suck blood from my neck. Dont go see Dr. Acula.

For Warren

Well bud, I heard this the other day and I thought of you and all the Canucks.

Cheers


Headed down south to the land of the pines
I'm thumbin' my way into North Caroline
Starin’ up the road
And pray to God I see headlights
I made it down the coast in seventeen hours
Pickin’ me a bouquet of dogwood flowers
And I'm a hopin’ for Raleigh
I can see my baby tonight

Chorus:
So rock me mama like a wagon wheel
Rock me mama anyway you feel
Hey mama rock me
Rock me mama like the wind and the rain
Rock me mama like a south-bound train
Hey mama rock me

Runnin' from the cold up in New England
I was born to be a fiddler in an old-time string band
My baby plays the guitar
I pick a banjo now
Oh, the North country winters keep a gettin’ me now
Lost my money playin’ poker so I had to up and leave
But I ain’t a turnin’ back
To livin’ that old life no more

(Chorus)

Walkin' to the south out of Roanoke
I caught a trucker out of Philly
Had a nice long toke
But he's a headed west from the Cumberland Gap
To Johnson City, Tennessee
And I gotta get a move on fit for the sun
I hear my baby callin’ my name
And I know that she's the only one
And if I die in Raleigh
At least I will die free

(Chorus)

Steph

I would just like you all to know how much I care for my girlfriend Stephanie Thompson. This is a woman with so much strenght and courage. I mean, she puts up with my crap on a daily basis. She is a constant reminder of what love is and what it means to show mercy and compassion. I am crazy in love with you. Stephanie you are amazing.

Hunter F. Moore

First of all I know that his middle name isnt F. Get with the program. I sit here in Baylors SUB wondering what the hell is going on. I have been fine the last few days. But now Hunter is officially gone. He has left for europe again and I am excited as hell for him to be going. But, I am truly sad. My heart is as heavy and bomb. I am truly hurting, and all I can do is hope that it will not last. But it will, until that beautiful man comes back. But I am saved, thank GOD, by an incredible group of people. Friends are the world to me and very few times in my life have I felt such a bond with with so many people. Nothing is hidden, nothing is held back. Everything that can be thrown onto the table has been. I feel as if we are all one person. Spending the last remaining hours together before we all depart for a better place. But I wonder sometimes, when the weather is nice, is there really a better place than Waco, Texas?

I love you Hunter I cant wait to see you.

Cheers

Dads

Well once again it has been a while since I have posted. But man am I excited about life. One of my all time buddies has just created a life with the help of his wife. Avery Lynn Mueller was born two weeks ago. I met her last night and even held her (the first time I have held an infant since I was four and held my sister in the hospital). She was beautiful. She never once cried and even stuck her tongue out at me four times. I think that meant she liked me the most.
I must admit that when my friends all started getting married I was worried, and when four of my friends all got pregnant the same week I was even more distressed. But after seeing my buddy and his family together with their new limb on the tree I was quite the opposite. Better things couldnt happen to better people. I love it. New life, damn its great.

Love you all.


Cheers

Eiger 1

For my next few posts I am going to quote Heirich Harrer from his book The White Spider.

"Climbers are not only men of action, they are also matter-of-fact people. Such reflections are only to be explained by the first upsurge of joy at one's recaptured life; they won't stand up to sober judgement. The miracle and the mercy were none of nauture's fashioning nor the mountains, but were the result of man's will to do the right thing even in moments of direst peril. Who can say we were merely lucky?

Jurassic 5

Yesterday me and some friends departed for a journey to Babylon. Babylon in this instance isnt the Holy Land per se but the Gypsy Tea Room. Jurassic 5 was playing there and I have been dying to see them for several years. I couldnt have asked for a better group of people to spend time with.
It was the best concert I have ever been to.
Check out their web-site.

www.jurassic5.com

From a special someone for all you special people out there

"There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise. And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive. This ecstasy, this forgetfulness of living, comes to the artist, caught up and our of himself in a sheet of flame; it comes to the soldier, war-mad on a stricken field and refusing quarter; and it came to Buck, leading the pack, sounding the old wolf cry, straining after the food that was alive and that fled swiftly before him through the moonlight. He was sounding the deeps of his nature, and of the parts of his nature that were deeper than he, going back into the womb of Time. He was mastered by the sheer surging of life, the tidal wave of being, the perfect joy of each separate muscle, joint, and sinew in that it was everything that was not death, that was aglow and rampant, expressing itself in movement, flying exultantly under the stars and over the face of dead matter that did not move".

Best Buy

It has been some time since I have written anything, I must apologize (mainly to myself). I find little time for subtle pleasures when trying to arrange my life.
Today I found myself going to Best Buy to find some printer cartridges for my girlfriend. Let me give you a little background about Best Buy. I hate them, and there are many reasons for this. Basically they are a corporation and that should sum it up. I have no idea how they were founded who runs the company, why they do what they do but I do know that they suck. I once went into a best buy during a phase of my life where I was unable to walk without a crutch. There was not much I could do so I went there to buy a video game to occupy my time. The trip was a success as I could afford the game and show the proper ID. But to my astonishment when I got home and installed the game on my pc it wouldnt work. The computer was prehistoric, built in my cousin's basement. So still having my receipt I returned to the boxy monstrosity of a building and kindly asked the service rep to return my game and let me have another that my computer would run. She told me that was impossible. She said that I could have copied the game to my computer and tried to "steal it". My retort, "are you calling me a thief?" She said politely no but thats the deal. I asked if she believed that everyone that came in the store was potentially a thief? She said no. So if I bought a washing machine and took it home could I return it. If there was a problem with it, yes, I could. I said what if I brought it home, took it apart and used the internals as a map to making my own washing machine. Thats impossible sir. No its not, but do you understand what I am saying to you? She said no and I left with the game on the counter. I vowed to never go there again.
So today as I go into the God forsaken place for my bird, I was instantly greeted by a woman posing to be security, who looked me up and down as if I had already stolen something. I gave her a piss off look and went about my business. I found the merch that I was looking for and proceeded to the checkout with Stephs blank check. I began to fill the rest out at the counter and the woman kindly said, "I am sorry we cant take that." Why, and she said store policy says that they cannot except checks from people didnt sign it in front of the register. I wished I had a needle to poke in my eye, but not having one, I used my own credit card.
I realize that these people are only screws in the bigger machine, but I almost hate them equally. I wonder if anyone else out there feels this way about Best Buy or any other company. I am sure that you are out there.

Trip Home

Well my trip home was anything but boring. One would think that driving 3000 miles in less than a week would be awful. But it was anything but that. Thanks to my beautiful co-pilot, not only was the drive fun, but it was actually possible. All my possible means of payment for gas and food were relinquished in Canada by some meth-head. But her assets proved to be quite able.
The first part of the drive was a quick Squamish to Smith Rock venture. We arrived at Smith about ten hours later and pitched camp at a fairly good spot at the Skull Hollow campground (free). In the middle of the night I awoke screaming. Thanks to my greediness while asleep, Steph had kicked my sore ankle in the middle of the night while I was trying to steal her sleeping bag. Bad move on my part.
Then we were off to Boise but got sidetracked by a comfy inn with a hot tub in Bend. After soaking it up at the refuge (two free drink tickets), we finally made it to Bruce and Kari's villa. Got to go climbing the next morning and Kari worked with Steph at a gym and taught her some of the more proper techniques involved with climbing. Afterwards Steph gave me a belay on lead and it was her first time to belay at all. I was definitely impressed, both with the teacher and student. (Thanks Brucey and Kari)
Later we departed and eventually ended up in Ogden, Utah, or the buttcrack of Utah (affectionately). After driving around for three hours not able to find a campsite we ended up at a shady motel and spent the night.
Thank God for Indian Creek. You would think even in the summer heat that nobody could resist climbing there but you would be wrong. We drove through Moab, which was bustling, and assumed that Indian Creek might be busy. But as we drove in the only other people in the entire canyon were the Indians at Newspaper Rock (they sell jewelry to the tourist) who were packing up, and the Ranch owners. We went to the illustrious site that I had stayed at earlier in the year. It was truly Heaven. The shade had just settled as we set up camp and dinner. The gnats were even scared away by a tiddle of rain, yes rain in the summer in the desert. Steph had wanted to see the Grand Canyon but she was equally or more impressed with beauty of the Creek.
Continuing on we ended up in Breck, my old home, and hung out with some good friends at the Blue River House. It was great to see everyone doing well and made me miss the place quite sorely.(Hope to be back soon Dave) The next moring we awoke, fixed breakfast and then went to do the Summit County Traverse. This a traverse that seemingly never ends and is as hard as you want to make it. The it was off to the Breck Brewpup for a workmans special. If you ever find yourself there at lunchtime, order this delite for the best burger, fries and beer you can buy in CO and it only costs five smackers.
That meal nourished us properly for the drive to Amarillo where we Stephanie's amazing parents awaited with more food and fun. For the next five days we got in the hot tub, pool, lake, and ate like royalty. I cant really say enough about the Thompsons. Anne and David, thank you so much for your hospitality.
Today, finally I arrived home after a five hour drive with only Wu-Tang and Bob Marley playing (my CD player is quite picky). So I leave you with quotes from both
Wu - I am on a mission that brothers say is impossible, but when I swing my swords theyre all choppable.
Bob - I wanna be iron, like a lion, in Zion.
These quotes may not inspire much here, but in context, they will wow and shock you into a frenzy of thought that encourages the betterment of self and the world around you.

Cheers

For My Friends

I have to say that I am quite sad to have left the illustrious town of Squampton. It is one of the most beautfiul cities I have seen and I am thankful to have seen it before the economic boom it is about to go through. I am very happy to say that my last night there was one of the best I have had in some time.
After a late start (6:30 pm) we went bouldering. I was fortunate to see my friend Jak send her V5 or 6 and Logan send his V9. It was amazing to watch such amazing displays of strength and grace. At about ten we came back to the campsite to participate in a little Swedish culture. Our friend Ricko was preparing some cheese fondue. WIth enough cheese for the whole Republic of China we began eating the kilo of cheese and bread (not sure about the metric conversion but its alot). Afterwards we cracked some beers and rolled some celebratory cigarettes and one of the most beautiful moments in my life occurred.
Ricko is here from Switzerland. He is a metal worker and he decided to take a three month vacation one day. He came here with "his friend" and set out for adventure. His journey ended up in Squamish, where he and ourselves were fortunate enough to be neighbors. He met some Swiss "clampers" who took him cragging one day. He came back with the biggest smile on his face and his friends Marco and Staffan were equally elated. He had a blast and the next day went and bought shoes for more. His second day of climbing was by far the best. The guys took him up an area classic called Diedre (6 pitches of 5.8) and then linked it up to the Squamish Buttress ( 7 pitches 10 C) to take him to the top of the Chief. And apparently he was hooked. He went bouldering several times after that and if his english were a bit better I have a feeling it would have been all he talked about.
So my last day a few of us went to town and bought him a present. When the fondue was over and the cigs were finished we handed him his brand new harness. Never have I seen someone so happy from such a small gift in all my life. "This is a dream," he said. He could not contain his feelings and demonstrated one of the most broken yet elogant vocal displays of emotion.
This moment was the highlight of my trip and I would have everything I own stolen if it meant I got to see that again.
So to all my new friends, I am truly feel blessed. No one in this is world is as lucky as I was to get to share such a brief period of time with such a great group of people. I cant wait to see "yall" again.

What a Day

June 19th
It was a glorious day in Squamish. We awoke late but due to the great weather we knew we had to get going fast. When it is not raining in Squamish one must take advantage of the open window. After a splendid breakfast (bananna pancakes) presented by the glorious Aussie/Canuck duo, we set out for a 15 pitch day up to the top of the Chief.
It was a great start to the day. After a short drive to the parking lot we set out up St. Vitus direct route to gain the upper buttress. The first pitch was 10c pitch led marvelously by the infamous Hardman from Tennessee. After some thin finger crack action (the crux was wet) Warren jumped out onto the ledge using his patented flying squirrel technique that he learned back home. I followed and cleaned the gear and we walked up the next pitch. It was 5.8 offwidth and the lead was mine. In forty meters I place the only four pieces that would fit the crack and set up a belay. Warren showed up a bit later and took the sharp-end on a two pitch linkup. Next was Memorial Flake which Warren was more psyched about and big snake took the lead again. All of this was to gain Memorial ledge and then set off for Memorial Crack. We were joined on the ledge by our Soloist friend David and shared some food and water. Warren Had been dying to do Memorial Crack so this lead was his also. David went ahead of us, beautifully demonstrating the cool head needed for soloing such a great route. He took the camera and shot some pics from above. Once above this, we marched up again for our linkup to the squamish buttress (squamptress).
The hike was quite brutal and we were engulfed by our hunger and thirst. We were losing steam but still found enough gusto in our reservoirs to hit it hard. I took the lead. Great big jugs sent me over a roof to a slabby face climb to a bolt. Once to the bolt I hit the crux. Everything up to this point was quite casual. We were talking to each other and laughing how I couldnt keep chalk on my sweaty digits. Then I hit the vertical business. Crimping and edging my feet on smaller holds, I fondled my chalk bag over and over but it wasnt helping. About eight feet above the bolt I hit the wall. Hanging on small hold, I threw my foot up in desperation just missing the foothold. Warren let out a shout, "yeah buddy'. But it was too late and I was spit off the wall and went careening down like giant ass rocket. About twnety to thirty feet later I was hanging over the edge wondering what the hell had just happened. I had fallen off a vertical face and bounced onto the slab and began sliding quite fast toward the roof I had been flying over so casually. And the jugs that had been so kind to me earlier now were the destructors of my body. Luckily instead of my face smashing into them I was saved by my ankle. Immediately it was gushing blood and we realized it was time to retreat. We began the ginger hike down to a rappel which was quite insecure looking. Warren went first and while he was descending I noticed someone getting in my truck. Warren tried to tell me it was just our friend David, but I knew what was really going on.
Earlier I had made sure the truck was locked. But this stranger dressed in all black had found a key. Once finally down the brutal hike we found the rock on my seat and the window shattered. My computer, wallet and cell phone were all missing. From here warren and I went picked up Steph at the campground and went to town to find the police. After talking to a very kind and courteous policeman and some locals about the tragedy we took our meager looking entourage to the bar for beer, food and cigarettes. These were the most soothing moments of the day.

More to come

Early Fathers Day

To My Dad

Right now my Dad is laid up in bed in his home in Euless, Tx. I am currently at least forty hours away and can in no way afford a plane ticket. And I just want him and the rest of this world that I love him. He had an unfortunate accident and is now left with only one good ankle and shoulder (for the time being). Your prayers would be most appreciated.

As a kid I have always looked up to my father and not because he is tall. My dad is the kind of man that people appreciate. He listens to what you have to say and always has good advice (whether its what you want to hear or not). My father is a smooth business man who has always done well with his personality and striking good looks.

Having said all that, me and father dont always understand each other. My memory is not so good. But for quite some time my father has insisted that I work. So he began finding jobs for me when I was thirteen or fourteen. These were mainly lawn mowing or landscaping jobs that he would set up for me. Which made me lots of money since I had no startup costs or gas prices to deal with (he set me up with everything). This dinero was in turn spent on comic books, sports cards or new equipment. My dad tried to convince me that I should save this money but I never did. Maybe thats the way it will always be. I have been on the road now for quite some time and everytime I have talked to my father he has mentioned some kind of new good job. "The border patrol would be good work. Its with the government." And he is right. It would be good work. I would have health care and benefits, but for some reason that is not what I want. And I dont know what I want so I will keep trying this and that and learning new skills. As for my father he found what he was good at early and stuck with it. He is still in the biz and every bit as successful as he ever was and I am so proud of him for that. And my dream one day is to provide for my family the same way he has for us.

My dad has taught me so much in these twenty four years that we have been hanging out. And I appreciate all of it. And the memories that we share together will always be cherished. Even the time you put that leaf you found on your foot in my coke while I was asleep. "Man this coke taste awful." Oh you were still drinking that?" Good times dad.

I love you Dad, and I pray you have a speedy recovery. I will be home soon.

I wish that I knew what I know now

What can I say. I have now been in the Chief campground now for about a week. Camping at the base of this grand monument to God and nature is truly enlightening. I am surrounded by cultures from all over the world that are suddenly thrown together to see what they have in common. One of my neighbors (Rico) is here from Switzerland not Sweden. He is a metal worker that is on a three month vacation. His english is not very good and he carries a pocket translator with him everywhere ("it is warry good.") A couple of nights ago we had a movie night in the campground. Rico couldnt believe it, "This is crazy, crazy!" I never would have thought that I could have so much fun drinking beer with someone from another country and finding words in his translator that make us all laugh. He calls climbers "clampers" and almost all of his r's are replaced with w's. We also have an Aussie geologist who has quit his job ( and it is quite a lucrative one in Aussie Land) to climb full time. He is problaby one of the best climbers I know and is also one of the most modest. He was working on his 5.13 project in the rain (sick). He is training right now for the Bugaboos, a climbing area in Canada with ridiculous approaches and hard climbing at altitude. He will be attempting the third free ascent of a hardman route on Howser Tower. Anyways I could go on about the people but I grow weary of being on the web.

Gypsy Life Really Isn't So Bad

I have now been on the road for over a month now. Being on the road for so long (really it doesnt seem so long) really opens up your eyes. Not only to just the beautiful sights and outrageous prices of gasoline, but the people you come across and things learned. I have aqcuired more knowlege of myself and this world more in this month plus than I have in a long time. Without the mind numbing (and yet stimulating) television at my disposal I have read quite a few books and when I go to the store I am more interested in what they have in paperback than I am anything else. Get home from a day of climbing or wandering around and what do you have to do? Re-organize your truck again, read, cook dinner, listen to music and crack a beer with friends. Man that sounds alot better than getting home from work and reflexively plopping on the couch and watching God knows what. So if I could suggest a few books to you the reader:

Culture Jam Kalle Lassn
Kiss or Kill by Mark Twight
Anything by John Krakauer
Anything by Edward Abbey
A New Kind of Christian
The Spider
Not Davincci Code (just a bad book)
Cash by Johnny Cash
The Alchemist
The 911 Report
Neither Here Nor There by Bill Bryson

There are many more that escape me for one reason or another but enjoy at least one of these somewhere off to yourself and imagine a life you would rather have. Then... make it happen.

Squamish

So the "gang" is back together again. We are a eclectic bunch, one that has stimied from the bogs of Tennessee to the wooded acres of Calgary. What a great time to go climbing. Squamish is so beautiful. When driving there you get a vantage of diversified landscape. Mountains on one side and the ocean and BC islands on the other. Then you round a corner and there is this huge granite dome called the Chief that fills your mind with all kinds of climber lingo that you may not even understand but say with a grace that would make a poet curious. And climbing this monstrosity of God's art is something else. Placements of gear are solid and feel like you could drop a Mack truck on them. And the reward of sharing a rope with your partner is a summit with a friend that you would die for. Climbing may not be a team sport but I learn alot more about a person 1000 feet up on the same rope than I do throwing a baseball or playing soccer. I love this life and I wish that everyone had this amazing opportunity. Maybe I'll see what I can do about that.

Canada

Let me just say beforehand that every country has its pros and cons. But so far as I have entered Canada I have seen so much beauty and kindness that I cant hardly find anything negative except maybe the border. Here I am, Ryan the American, ready to spend some coin in this country and it took everything I had to persuade the mounty at border that I actually did in fact have money to spend. I suppose its much easier to kick people out at the border than it is to extradite them from some far off region. And he wasnt exactly a mounty. He looked more like a SWAT guy who had killed to many people and was bumped down to border patrol. Or maybe he was a interragator in training. Some advice for crossing the border, be prepared to answer any question you can think of with mongoose like reflexes. Oh your driving a truck, what condition is it in? Do you eat cheese with a little mold on it? Whats the best wood for creating a deck in the Himalayas? Are convection ovens the way to go in your mind? Do you like Lyle Lovitt? Really? Something like that. There is no clear representable pattern but to them it makes perfect sense. Fortunately I was cool as ice and my Rusty Cage was not going to be rattled.

A Story

Today has brought to mind many things. Climbing and taking the sharp-end for the first time in a while made me think of a very bad memory.
"Dude your leaving tomorrow. Do you want to go to Tonk?" I told John that of course I did. If there ever was a place in Waco that I would call home it would have to be Tonkawa Falls. For a fox it would be the open field that held all the wonder of the world. Alot to say for such a simple place but mysticism comes in small forms and packs a punch like Liddell. Tonkawa is a bouldering area nestled into the area of Crawford, Texas. The area was formed by a waterfall (yes in Texas) that runs west to east. The limestone cliffs hold vast amounts of pocket madness and tendon crunching crimps. The route variations are endless and once there you pull the glasses off and see the beauty that is Texas limestone.
I started climbing four years ago and Tonk was the first bouldering I had done outside. I remember going out there day after day trying to get this one V2 that still remains nameless to me. I would work and grunt and not be able to pull it off. While my friend Ron would show me and then go work on a V6. I finally sent the bastard using my ape like wingspan and everything fell into place.
We had been going out there for a few years until the secret got out and the local fraternities decided to join in on our fun and jump off the ever so high (12 foot) waterfall. Challenging each other to make an even bigger splash than before seemed so rudementary. But hey, we were climbing rocks and falling on our asses for no other reason than to stand on top. Or so it may have seemed to them. I took about a ten foot plop on my back one day in front of all the soccer hooliganesque dudes and ladies. I was ok but my pride suffered the rest of the day.
Anyways, My last day in Waco was not quite what I had expected at all. I wanted to show John and Kelly a new problem. We were excited in the car, telling the same old stupid jokes that have always made a trip faster and much more intriquing. The ER joke was even bigger splash than ever before with a new twist. As we arrived we were not quite prepared for what we saw. The plan was to cross the river and warm up and then return to the other side. We sat in disbelief and saw the carnage. The side that had been wrought with vines and trees and supposedly indian artifacts was now a cleared out section of land. The trees, top soil and everything else had been cleared and pushed onto our slab of rock. Almost all the problems on all the walls were exterminated. I was speechless, I was without speech. I dont know who was responsible or why this had happened but I was overcome with rage. This was a private resource open to the public, but it sure as hell made me think of taking my Monkey Wrench Gang handbook out and wreaking some absolute havoc on some heavy machinery. But sadly we did no such thing. We attempted to make the best of it, but our charisma had been ripped from us like the trees of Tonkawa Falls.
And now I am gone and still dont know what happened. And I may never get back there.

Lady of the Hour

I need this lady to get back. She has been overseas now for quite some time and I have been away for a bit longer. And well I miss the hell out of her. She is doing this world some good and I am quite proud of her and happy to say I love her.

Canada tomorrow

I leave for Canada tomorrow. Redmond and Smith Rock were my home for two weeks plus. I must say that I appreciated my time here and am grateful for all the friendly faces I have encountered. Climbers in the area, gear shop employees, coffee shop baristas and bar stuards of all gender. And the friends of the natural world, mainly Fred the Lizard. Also all the friends and family from home that I miss heartily.

A day of nothing

Waking up today (some monday) at my campground was refreshing. All the climbers have had their fill, and the weather is finally beautiful. This is the first time I have been warm in the last six days. Weather in desert has been quite cold and rainy. Laying in the back of my truck I thought about what to do today. Coffee, yes, that outdoor coffee that leaves swirls of chemical studded rainbows on the top. Once that was made and tasted I lighted the Beugler cigarette I had rolled. Then...yes it gets better, came the best set of eggs I have ever had. Scrambled with butter and cheese and garlic salt. Then I was off to the latrine, graciously placed by our host (the state), 1 on each side of the camp (not near enough for weekends). As you sit and take care of business, if the wind is blowing in the right direction (it was) you get a cold breeze swathing your fanny which feels like heaven on toast. But this also carries your own stink directly up to you nostrils. Back to the site it was time to set up the gym and collect left behind firewood (or palletes) from the ever so gracious climbing community. After a quick sunbathe in my underwear with my friend Fred the lizard I am off to workout. I did some crazy stuff and finished with yoga ( all in my underwear, which was quite the show) and plopped down to read some more Bryson. The rest of the day was quite boring, even Fred left to go find some shade and fresh tail (everyday he goes up in a tree with a different lady). I can just imagine what happens up there. One time he jumped out of the tree onto our table and scurried off. I can imagine the conversation with the lady going something like this, "So you want my # or something? she says. Uh, yeah, sure let me what, woh woh waaaaaaa!" ( As he fake falls out of the tree and gives us a wink) "I'm ok babe, see you later.

The Past Few Weeks

Well here it is the first one. Wow. I started this journey with a ten hour drive from Texas through New Mexico to Colorado. Ten hours later I was there. And basically from there I have gone all over the west for a job, and well I plan to continue on to Canada and then back down. Meeting people, kicking ass and climbing will and are on high priority. Oh today I sold something to a person on ebay whose last name was FUKUMOTO. How awesome is that. What if that was your ringtone on your phone. FUKUMOTO dang didang gang and such. Oh I am currently staying at Smith Rock state park and rehabbing my knee. I sleep with my axe for protection and those lonely nights until Canada.